Недавно с клиенткой обсуждали тенденции, в том числе речь зашла о statement рукавах. Помните в предыдущей статье мы об этом говорили? Когда я пошла в детали и перечисления, на свет выплыли они, рукава «бараний окорок». «Какое странное название» — сказала моя клиентка — «а почему так?» Мы уже разобрались, а для вас ниже рассказываю, что это такое, кратко откуда взялось и какая у него история. Для расширения модного кругозора точно пригодится. Поехали!
Что это такое?
Рукав «бараний окорок» или гиго (gigot по -французски) был назван так потому, что по форме напоминает голову бар
ана. Он начинается широким буфом на уровне плеча и верхней части руки и заужается от линии локтя к запястью. Что интересно, когда появился этот рукав, в моде были юбки с очень пышной юбкой. Таким образом образ получался сбалансированным, а талия визуально уже.
Когда появился?
Первые следы уходят в 16 век, Италия, затем добрая королева Бес или Елизавета Английская, знатная модница периода Возрождения в Англии, носила платья на жестком корсете с пышными рукавами, которые зауживались книзу. Елизавета кстати отлично знала все свои выигрышные стороны. От отца ей достались густые рыжие волосы, она ими очень гордилась и впервые стала их распускать, даже во время официальных приёмов. Она была высокая со стройной фигурой, поэтому жесткое испанское платье отлично прижилось, ведь оно подчеркивало статность и стройность. А когда смотрела фильм «Золотой век» с Кейт Бланшет в главной роли (очень вам рекомендую данный фильм), я просто любовалась деталями, например, как красиво завязаны фактура волос Елизаветы и ажурность воротника. Зная о том, какая была королева, возможно и это тоже было ею продумано.
Но расцвет этих странных и в чем-то даже гротескных рукавов пришелся на 19 век. Первый всплеск произошел во второй половине 1820-х годов, во время расцвета моды периода бидермайер.
«А какие встретите вы дамские рукава на Невском проспекте! Ах, какая прелесть! Они несколько похожи на два воздухоплавательные шара, так что дама вдруг бы поднялась на воздух, если бы не поддерживал ее мужчина; потому что даму так же легко и приятно поднять на воздух, как подносимый ко рту бокал, наполненный шампанским» — так писал о рукавах жиго Николай Гоголь в своей повести «Невский проспект». Спущенная линия и пышные рукава создавала эффект покатых плеч, которые в то время были в моде и очень ценились. Романтическая барышня, женщина цветок, хрупкая в этих гротескных одеяниях, ожидающая письмо своего любимого.
Рукав доживает до своего апогея в 30-е годы 19 века и затем сходит на нет. Но этим его история в 19 веке не закончилась. В шкафы модниц этот необычный рукав попадает к концу столетия, в период Belle Epoque, когда дамы всеми способами стремились подчеркнуть тонкую талию и женственные формы. Просуществовав менее 10-ти лет, в том числе под давлением прогресса и ускорения ритма жизни, этот неудобный рукав вновь уходит с модной арены.
В течение 20-го века рукав всплывает то здесь, то там в работах различных дизайнеров. Например, у гения кроя Баленсиаги:
Но так и не становится ключом программы. И сейчас в современном мире он лишь как часть одной из тенденций, появляется в стилизованном виде и уже далек от тех воздушных шаров, про которые писал классик.
Как с ним быть?
Данный рукав безусловно увеличивает линию плеча и в целом верхнюю часть тела. Кому-то из нас это может быть очень даже и полезно с визуальной точки зрения. Так вы сможете сбалансировать объемный низ, забрав внимание на верх. Также эта модель поможет скрыть полную часть руки (до локтя) и подчеркнуть тонкие запястья.
И ещё для примера, как это может выглядеть. У топа справа, конечно, не совсем этот рукав, но эффект получается похожий и выглядывающая из под него рука на игре контрастов кажется хрупкой.
Ну, что, друзья, мы с вами очень кратко познакомились с тем, что такое рукав «бараний окорок» или gigot. Возможно кто-то из вас найдет его среди своих вещей. Вот так и попадает история моды к нам в гардероб. Азбука вам всегда в помощь.
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